tasting the 2008s in Burgundy—next week, Bordeaux
This week I’m in Burgundy, tasting the 2008s. Began in Chablis Monday, I’m now ensconced in Beaune, visiting domaines. So far, the highlight has been a stop in Auxey-Duresses at Domaine Jean and Gilles Lafouge. . . wines with astonishing precision and elegance, what I think Burgundy should be all about and isn’t always. Premiers crus reds La Chapelle and Les Duresses – just to take two of the wines Gilles Lafouge poured in his tiny cellar—have deliciously pure fresh fruit balanced by savory, mouthwatering acidity. These are wines with great life and energy—true Burgundy for $25 to $35 a bottle. More reports later. . . then on to Bordeaux to taste 2009 vintage en primeur next week.